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Georg-Wilhelm-Str. 7 A - 10711 Berlin - Germany
Tel ++49 (0)30 342 1757 - Fax ++49 (0)30 342 1764
Website: www.rasps.biz

 

Overview Chisels

Overview Chisels

Japanese Chisels
Japanese Chisels

Chisels made by Two Cherries
Chisels made by Two Cherries

Firmer Chisels, Mortise Chisels, German and Japanese
Firmer Chisels, Mortise Chisels, German and Japanese

Chisels for Stairmakers - can be used for heavy Woodcarving too
Chisels for Stairmakers - can be used for heavy Woodcarving too

Corner Cutting Chisel, Paring Chisel, Swan Neck Chisel, Cranked Chisel, Skew Chisel, Butt Chisel, Chisels for making Shoji Screens
Corner Cutting Chisel, Paring Chisel, Swan Neck Chisel, Cranked Chisel, Skew Chisel, Butt Chisel, Chisels for making Shoji Screens

Tool Roll for Chisels
Tool Roll for Chisels

Mallets to strike Chisels
Mallets to strike Chisels

Size Comparison of different Chisel Types
Size Comparison of different Chisel Types


A few tips on buying chisels

A good chisel can only show how good it is if it is used for the purpose it was intended for. The building site is the wrong place for an expensive chisel, for there the wood will be spattered with concrete and the danger of theft will be high. The other side of the coin is that delicate work should be done with fine tools.

And fine work can only be achieved if the chisel is sharp. Do not use dry grinding wheels, because they cause the steel to soften and the cutting edge will last hardly any time at all. There are plenty of manufacturers who promote their chisels with the slogan, "Sharpened ready for use - unpack me and use me!" Take no notice! You should flatten the back of the chisel to absolute flatness. If you have not done so, you cannot expect to finish it properly after sharpening the cutting edge. Then sharpen the bevel, and finally hone both the bevel and the flat face. Do not be afraid of using a sharpening guide. There is nothing harder than resharpening or re-grinding a bevel you are simply holding in your hand.

Another point - maybe you have heard the story of the ancient chisel rediscovered in a corner of the attic. It still worked, and sharpened up brilliantly, to an edge that lasted for ages. It rapidly became the tool of preference for every job. And what happened? Not a miracle, unless you count the properties of carbon steel, for that was what it was made of: carbon steel is excellent to sharpen and has high hardness. In the 19th century, virtually every cutting tool was made of carbon steel. The name is given to steel unalloyed with any other substance. It is allowed to contain up to 1.7 % carbon. It has some disadvantages - it is brittle and can be denatured if heated. And it is not stainless.

Many of today's manufacturers avoid these disadvantages by using steel alloys. Adding chromium and nickel, for instance, makes the steel stainless, adding tungsten and molybdenum makes it resistant to heat, and titanium toughens it. Foundries will mix the additives to obtain the best combination for the product.

However, these advantages in turn bring disadvantages. The tools are less easy to sharpen, grindstones get clogged, and frequently the cutting edge gets blunt sooner.

As the disadvantages of carbon steel for handheld cutting tools are more than outweighed by its advantages, we declare a preference in the case of chisels for tool steels with a high carbon content.

Japanese chisels are made of plain high-carbon steel. Two Cherries and MHG chisels are made of alloyed steel.

Never use your chisel as a pry bar or wedge! You can damage the cutting edge!


Overview Chisels
Overview Chisels


Overview Carving Tools
Overview Carving Tools

Overview Rasps and Files
Overview Rasps and Files


Tool rolls for chisels, sculptor's tools, files and rasps, and many other tools

Tool rolls for chisels, sculptor's tools, files and rasps, and many other tools

These tool rolls, made of sturdy sailcloth, will protect your valuable chisels and carving tools from dirt and damage. Because the flap of the roll folds over the contents before it is rolled up, and with the roll securely fastened, tools may be safely transported with no risk of falling out.

The question is often asked whether tools should be inserted into a tool roll cutting edge first or handle first. Generally, chisels are placed in the roll cutting edge first. Cutting edges of carving tools have different contours, and should therefore be placed in the roll handle-first to keep the cutting edges visible. This prevents a search through whole roll for a particular tool.

We recommend that you place all tools in the tool roll handle-first; this lets you immediately find the tool you wish to use. Cutting edges are kept from contact with each other by the protective flap, which lies between them when the tool roll is rolled up.

Our tool rolls are suitable for all the chisels and carving tools that we offer, with one exception: the firmer chisels made by Two Cherries; their handles are too thick to fit in the pockets.


Tool roll - supplied without tools!

Canvas Tool Roll with Cord

Tools not included!
Max. diameter of handle: 35 mm (1-3/8 in.)
Recommended length of tools: max. 300 mm (12 in.)

With 6 pockets:
Length open: 45 cm (16 in.)
Order nr. 109065
Price € 7.95


With 10 pockets:
Length open: 65 cm (24 in.)
Order nr. 109066
Price € 9.95


With 15 pockets:
Length open: 90 cm (31 in.)
Order nr. 109067
Price € 12.50

Leather Tool Roll made by TWO CHERRIES with 12 transparent and sturdy plastic tool pockets

Leather Tool Roll

made by TWO CHERRIES with 12 transparent and sturdy plastic tool pockets
Tools not included!
Enlargement

Max. handle diameter: 28 mm
Recommended max length of tools: up to 280 mm

Size: for 12 Carving tools
Length: 33 cm
Order nr. C357000
Price: € 33.50

Leather Tool Roll with 12 leather pockets made by TWO CHERRIES

Leather Tool Roll

with 12 leather pockets made by TWO CHERRIES
Tools not included!

Max. handle diameter: 28 mm
Recommended max length of tools: up to 280 mm

Size: for 12 Carving tools
Length: 33 cm
Order nr. C357100<
Price: € 43.90